Until 1928, an all-black tram with tinted windows ran in Milan—one that the living were not allowed to board. It was called “la Gioconda,” and its story fascinated Eleonora Duse and Auguste Rodin
In Milan, trams are not just a means of transportation, but true witnesses to the city’s history. The yellow and colorful “Carrelli” still operate today on many routes, attracting onlookers and tourists w...