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Italy is a treasure chest filled with wonders, and among them, perfectly preserved medieval villages hold a place of honor. Walking through their cobblestone streets, admiring the expert workmanship of centuries-old walls and imposing towers is an experience that almost allows us to touch history.
Northern Italy, in particular, holds authentic gems of medieval architecture and town planning, evidence of a vibrant and sometimes turbulent past. Think of places like Grazzano Visconti in Emilia-Romagna or Soncino in Lombardy, capable of transporting us back in time.Between the 13th and 14th centuries, this part of the peninsula was a patchwork of powerful communes, emerging lordships and constant struggles for control of the territory.
In this context of instability, but also of fervent agricultural and commercial activity, unique structures such as the ricetti were born, designed for the defense and preservation of community property. And among them, one stands out for its incredible integrity and charm: the Ricetto of Candelo in Piedmont.
The Ricetto of Candelo: what it is and where this Piedmontese treasure is located.
But what exactly do we mean by “ricetto”? It is not a castle, a lord’s residence, nor is it a fortified village in the classical sense. A medieval ricetto was a community fortified structure, created at the behest of the locals themselves, mainly for defensive purposes and for the preservation of the most valuable goods, such as agricultural products (wine and grains in primis), in case of danger or external attack. It was a temporary shelter, a collective warehouse protected by solid walls.
The Ricetto di Candelo, located in the municipality of Candelo, in the province of Biella, is considered one of the best-preserved examples of ricetto in Piedmont in Europe. Its fame derives precisely from the extraordinary integrity of its structure, which has come down to us almost intact from the Middle Ages. Its construction dates mainly from the period between the late 13th and 14th centuries, at the initiative of the Candelese community, which was eager to protect its resources from the raids and instabilities typical of the period.
It was thus not a feudal imposition, but a collective work, an aspect that enhances its historical and social value.
Where exactly is it located in relation to Milan?
The distance is about 100-110 km, which can be traveled by car in about an hour and a half, depending on traffic, by taking the A4 Turin-Milan highway to the Carisio junction and then following the signs for Biella/Candelo. For those who prefer public transportation, it is possible to reach Biella San Paolo station by train (usually with a change in Novara or Santhià from Milan) and from there continue to Candelo by local bus (a few kilometers away) or cab.
What to see inside the Ricetto di Candelo
To cross the threshold of the Ricetto di Candelo is to plunge into an atmosphere suspended in time. The structure, with a pseudo-pentagonal plan, occupies an area of about 13,000 square meters and is entirely surrounded by mighty defensive walls, built with river pebbles (mainly from the nearby Cervo stream) bound by mortar, and crowned with swallow-tailed Ghibelline battlements. The main entrance is through the imposing Porta Tower, dating from the mid-14th century.
Once inside, one finds oneself in a maze of cobblestone streets, called “rue” (a term of French origin that fits the context well), separating some two hundred uniform buildings: the “cells.” These were not permanent dwellings, but warehouses and cellars, used to store agricultural products and as temporary shelter. Today, many of these cells house craft workshops, small thematic museums, art studios and eateries, making the visit even more interesting.
Walking through the Ricetto di Candelo village, one can admire the various corner towers, which served as lookout and defense points. The so-called Prince’s Tower stands out, leaning against the walls on the southwest side, which was built in the late 15th century by Sebastiano Ferrero, lord of Candelo, testifying to a period when the structure began to partially lose its purely communal function.
Observing the construction details, the regular arrangement of the cells along the streets, the solidity of the walls, allows one to fully understand the functionality and ingenuity of this extraordinary example of medieval collective architecture. The medieval Ricetto of Candelo is truly an open-air history book.
Experience the village: activities and guided tours
To best appreciate the history and peculiarities of the Ricetto, we recommend that you join a guided tour. The entity in charge of enhancing and managing the tours and many events is the Pro Loco of Candelo, which is always very active in promoting this heritage. There is an entrance fee to access the Ricetto, the cost of which contributes to the maintenance and preservation of this unique place (it is always a good idea to check rates and updated schedules on the official Pro Loco website before visiting). However, general access to the hamlet is free, while a ticket is required for the guided and multimedia tours.
In addition to the guided tours, which reveal fascinating anecdotes and historical details, it is a pleasure to wander independently through the streets, browsing through the many craft stores. Here you can find local products, artistic artifacts, ceramics, textiles and much more, evidence of a know-how that has been handed down over time.
Inside the Ricetto there are also small exhibition and museum spaces, such as the Museum of Art and Crafts of the Rural World, the Small Museum of Cooking and Pastry Things, and the Piedmont Ricetti Documentation Center. The Ricetto is also a stage for lively and original cultural initiatives. A significant example is “Fumetti al Ricetto,” an event that combines the world of ninth art (with meetings with authors, exhibitions and workshops) with the discovery of local crafts.
During events like this, the cellars and cells open further, hosting exhibitors who present their creations, in an evocative dialogue between the art of comics and the craftsmanship that animates the Ricetto village of Candelo.
From Candelo in Bloom to the Christmas Markets.
Although the Ricetto di Candelo is fascinating in every season, visiting it during one of the many events organized throughout the year adds an extra layer of magic to the experience. The calendar is rich and varied:
January – Feast of St. Anthony Abbot
A day dedicated to peasant tradition, with the impressive blessing of animals and farm vehicles in Piazza Castello, followed by parades, mass and a community lunch with authentic flavors.
February/March – Historic Carnival.
A costumed re-enactment that stages the ancient dispute between the Candelese community and Lord Sebastiano Ferrero, for a plunge into the past between history and folklore.
May – Musical May
The streets of the Ricetto resound with classical notes, with concerts that create a unique atmosphere within the medieval walls.
May/June (even-numbered years) – Candelo in Fiore.
One of the most celebrated events. Every two years (alternating with the “Sapor di Medioevo” festival), the village is transformed into an enchanted garden. Local nurserymen set up beautiful themed flower arrangements, coloring every corner of the Ricetto.
September – September at the Ricetto
The month is dedicated to art and culture, with painting exhibitions by local artists, art installations and theater performances enlivening the village.
October (first weekend) – Vinincontro
Protagonists are the wines and flavors of the Biellese and Piedmontese territory, with tastings accompanied by popular music to celebrate local food and wine excellence.
December – Santa’s Village and Christmas Markets.
During Advent and the holidays, the Ricetto is dressed in lights and decorations, transforming into a fairy-tale setting. The markets in Ricetto di Candelo are among the most beautiful in Italy, with many unique gift ideas including handicrafts and gastronomic specialties. There is no shortage of attractions for the little ones, such as pony rides, and the ever-present Santa’s house, all in an evocative historical setting.
Earth Market
About once a month, the Ricetto hosts this Slow Food market, where small local producers offer fresh, seasonal, sustainable products at fair prices. A great opportunity to buy 0-kilometer excellence.
In addition, the village hosts major musical events such as the Ricetto in Musica international competition, which attracts young talent from around the world.
The Ricetto of Candelo is not simply a well-preserved monument; it is a living place, pulsating with history, culture and traditions. A visit to this extraordinary medieval village in Piedmont is an enriching experience, able to amaze and fascinate visitors of all ages.
Its relative proximity to Milan makes it an ideal destination for an out-of-town trip to discover the beauty of Italy, and a plunge into the heart of Piedmont’s Middle Ages.