Carb lovers, here’s a little spot in Milan to add to your list of places to visit. In Milan, at Via Cola Montano 12, there’s a bakery with just one display window and its hours written on the bread bag. It’s called Tondo Forno Radicale, and just a few years after opening in 2020, it has just reached the pinnacleof Italian excellence: Gambero Rosso’s *Pane e Panettieri d’Italia 2027* guide has awarded it the prestigious “Tre Pani” distinction.
An unexpected but well-deserved achievement, celebrated in Naples by the team with great emotion:“We’re thrilled! Over the years, we’ve refined our teamwork, expanded our staff at the counter, all while continuing to make bread the Tondo way—with our hearts set on the wheat fields and the value that every ingredient must bring to our dough,” they shared on social media, thanking their customers and their wonderful “dough team.”
“Radicale”: a return to the land and to our roots
The driving force behind the project is Silvia Cancellieri, born in 1987. Originally from Liguria, Silvia trained at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo and honed her skills alongside master bakers such as Davide Longoni, Massimo Grazioli, and Nicolas Verdickt.
As we read in *Il Gambero Rosso*, the original name of the bakery, “Tondo,” has evolved over time with the addition of “Forno Radicale.” This is not a provocation, but a genuine statement of intent: a return to one’s roots, to the land, and to grains. Tondo works directly with small millers and farmers throughout Italy, selecting organic stone-ground flours that vary according to the rhythm of the harvests and the seasons.
What does Tondo bake?
A journey through loaves, focaccia, and delicacies: large loaves (ranging from 850 to 900 grams) take center stage on the counter, characterized by thick crusts, moist crumb, and intense aromas. Every day you can find the Tonda di tipo 2, the semolina loaf, and the seeded bread. These are complemented by rotating batches: rye, einkorn, buckwheat, ancient grains, and enriched breads. But the selection is a true kaleidoscope of flavors, where creativity meets the finest ingredients.
There’s no shortage of tributes to Silvia’s roots. Genoese focaccia (reimagined to achieve the perfect texture and far removed from the overly soft commercial versions), Recco-style focaccia, and pan-baked pizzas topped with ingredients like raw-milk caciocavallo, organic onions, and Ligurian anchovies.
Also featured by the bakery as “a radical alternative to energy bars” is the panfrutto. It’s a whole-grain rye bread packed with nuts and dried fruits (such as walnuts, figs, and blueberries). A burst of energy and flavor you’ll never get tired of.
On the sweet side, highlights include brioscini, vegetable tarts, and a special semi-whole-grain loaf enriched with single-origin chocolate and, depending on the inspiration of the day, blueberries or sour cherries. To see what’s available based on the season, we recommend checking the bread calendar.
Open Tuesday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 4:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. On Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Location: Via Cola Montano, 12, 20159, Milan. A short distance from the Isola metro station.
