In Duomo, Navigli and Porta Genova, Milan, the fashion capital and shopping city, has no shortage of Christmas markets. There is, however, one that is really part of the city’s Christmas DNA: born in 1510, it still enlivens the week of St. Ambrose, Milan’s patron saint, for just four days, which this year runs from December 5 to 8, 2025. Within the walls of Castello Sforzesco and along Piazza Castello are hundreds of stands offering wooden toys, handcrafted decorations and traditional delicacies, such as firunatts. If you are in Milan on those days, it is really worth carving out a few hours to get lost among its stalls.
A Milanese Christmas tradition from the Middle Ages
The Oh Bej! Oh Bej! fair in the form in which it is known today was born in 1510, when Giannetto Castiglione, a nobleman and the first Grand Master of the Order of Saints Maurice and Lazarus, was sent to Milan by Pope Pius IV with parcels filled with sweets and gifts to distribute to the people to rekindle faith and strengthen ties with the Church. It was from that occasion that the market would take its current name: “Oh Bej! Oh Bej!” is the exclamation in Milanese dialect that corresponds to “Oh belli! Oh belli!” the festive cry with which, according to tradition, the children welcomed the gifts brought by Giannetto Castiglione.
At the same time, the festival has its roots in medieval times. As early as the late 13th century, in fact, in honor of St. Ambrose, patron saint of Milan, a day of celebrations and markets were held in the area of the ancient church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Since then the date of the fair has never been changed and, every year, it takes place around December 7.
Other Christmas activities to do in Milan
In December, Milan is filled with Christmas events capable of winning over even the most skeptical. On Friday and Saturday evenings the Unipol Forum is transformed into a skating rink in perfect 80s style, with light games and music inviting people to dance on the ice until late. On the dates of December 19 and 21, intimate Christmas Candlelight concerts bring holiday melodies back to the San Fedele Auditorium, illuminated by the glow of hundreds of candles. On December 6 at 5 p.m., on the other hand, there will be the lighting of the huge Christmas tree in Piazza Duomo… Not to be missed!